The West Coast and Wanaka February 2021

Six days of some of the most majestic and diverse scenery in the world, starting from The Canterbury Plains, through the gentle tussock-covered foothills of the Southern Alps, the beautiful beech forest of Arthur's Pass, down the spectacular Otira Gorge with its vivid Rata trees, to pop out into a completely different world on The wild West Coast with its dense rain forest and spectacularly rugged coastline. . 

It does not matter if you are visiting for the first time or the fifty first time, the coastline at Punakaiki is simply jaw-droppingly fabulous! It is all so accessible thanks to the wonderful tracks, such as the Truman Track. After an easy 10-minute stroll through the dense native forest, then you pop out at this incredible viewpoint across the cliffs to Punakaiki's famous Pancake Rocks in the distance. Here too you can enjoy the blowholes and the cliffs and caves across the beach.

Of course, nothing quite compares to the Pancake Rock loop track where you can let your imagination run wild and discover all manner of things carved into the rock by the wind and wild seas, like this fabulous head, in the midst of the glistening, silvery water.

The weather can certainly make a massive difference to the visit, and I was fortunate enough to have timed the visit perfectly. Blue skies during the day means virtually no irritating sandflies, and best of all, such days signal some of the most sensational sunsets. I was lucky enough to be treated to not only breathtaking colours, but also to huge waves with their spray blowing backwards like jet streams, or leaping high into the air after they had crashed down. At one point they even seemed to move sideways with the gusty wind. I have never witnessed anything like it - nature's Son et Lumiere show.

From noisy, thrilling waves, to tranquil forests of lush vegetation. How I adore these perfectly formed Koru.

The Pororari River Gorge is without doubt one of the easiest and loveliest walks in the Punakaiki area. On a hot summer's day it allows you plenty of shade and occasional expansive views down this magnificent forest-clad gorge. I walked alone, accompanied only by the dulcet calls of the tuis or bellbirds.

If you look carefully, you may be lucky enough to see clumps of exquisite,  tiny native orchids growing amongst rotten tree stumps. They are very small, so you need to look carefully!

Heading south, my next stop was a new experience, Lake Kaniere. Wow, what a heavenly place this is amongst the forested hills and mountains, with pristine waters and little beach areas. It was a very hot day and the water was devine. I hesitated to go for a swim, because amazingly there was nobody around and I was too cautious to do more than a long paddle.

As dusk fell I headed for Sunset Point on Hokitika beach. What a phenomenal spot I found to watch yet another magnificent sunset, this time through a gorgeous heart made up of driftwood.

 What a magical few hours I spent there chatting to Kiwi travellers, watching a dancer twisting and twirling in the fading sunlight and the fishermen hoping for a special catch. As I watched them I realised that directly opposite was Mt Cook, less than 150 km away as the crow flies, and I couldn't help but notice how the shapes of the trees infront seemed to mimick the mountain chain behind them!

Hokitika Gorge has recently become a new hotspot to visit since a new walkway was opened there. Thanks to two sturdy swing bridges and the well made track, this stunning area is now easily accessible. After a 20 minute stroll through the dense native forest, with perfect shade thanks to the beautiful pungas,

you suddenly arrive at the bluest waters ever seen. I guess if it is cloudy, it might be less spectacular, but on the day I visited, this view just took my breath away!

Imagine being all alone (apart from the basking shark on the right of the photo😀) in such a beautiful, peaceful place. Unforgettable!

I was so pleased I had got there early. By the time I got back to the carpark, it was really busy. This new tourist attraction has been well and truly discovered - and rightly so. It is a must see!

What a scorcher it was on the West Coast, and after a loop track up the hill at Ross to see the old mining areas, I was in dire need of a cool spot to have an ice cold drink. The old Empire Hotel , built in 1908 was the perfect spot, offering great food and hospitality and through the many knick knacks and posters, an insight into life in Ross over the decades. 

Early next morning, I was the first in the carpark at Franz Josef glacier. It is oh so recommended to start out early.

The longer track to the tongue of the Glacier is the most popular by far, but I thankfully chose to visit a place I had never heard of before, Peter's Pools. I had read a blog about it, and I can only say that it was one of the highlights of my trip. Once again the track is so easy and a ten-minute stroll from the carpark leads you to this absolutely glorious view, with a perfect reflection in the shallow brown water of this so-called 'kettle lake'. This is another must see place which is not on the average tourist's list of visits.

Of course, the better known Lake Matheson, just down the road near Fox Glacier, is also well worth a visit. By the time I arrived, the clouds had descended over the Alps, so the perfect reflection I experienced last time could not be replicated, but it was still a brilliant walk around the lake through the lush vegetation and out to 'Reflection Island' ,where, thanks to there not being a soul around, I could sit and reflect on how lucky I was to be able to enjoy such beauty and such calm at a time when much of the world was locked down.

Time is such a wonderful thing to have, and I guess being alone, I had nobody suggesting that there had been too many stops. Another new place of interest was Ship Creek, just off the main highway, where once more a well-maintained, gentle track takes you through the dunes and forest to this picturesque 'dune lake'. I hadn't heard of either'kettle' or 'dune' lakes until today, so was happy to extend my knowledge.

It would be sad to have to hurry around the curvy, hilly West Coast roads. Stops are essential to just stare in awe at the never-ending carpet of rainforest clinging to these beautiful mountains. 

As you emerge from the gorgeous Haast Pass, you find another amazing track leading to yet another unbelievably blue pool, well named The Blue Pools. The new track is fantastic, taking about 40 minutes to the first of two swing bridges, and giving easy access to this beautiful spot. In the years I have been going, I have never seen people swimming there, even though it looks so inviting, but with outside temperatures in the mid 30s, the groups of swimmers were certainly enjoying the refreshingly chilly waters.

Nearly there. The piece of road running between the two lakes, Wanaka and Haast, is so tricky because the lakes are so distractingly beautiful. What a country!

Wanaka, one of my favourite places in NZ, if not in the World! It was great to do two new things on this visit.

Firstly, the gorgeous Lavender Farm, with so much of its lavender still in full bloom. All the senses are aroused here as you wander down the rows of bright purple lavender, with its magnificent scent , the loud buzzing of the thousands of busy bees and with sensational views of the surrounding mountain ranges

David and I also took a boat out to Stevenson's Island in Lake Wanaka. It was such a hot day so the boat trip was a perfect choice. 

And the views from the top of the small hill on the island were superb.

How lovely to spend the weekend in Wanaka with David doing so many lovely things!

Time to say 'farewell' to Wanaka. What a fabulous 6 days I have had!