Goodbye Pfaeffikon, hello Engadine


Time plays such funny tricks on the  mind. It seems only yesterday  that I was standing by the beautiful Pfaeffikersee, admiring the magnificent pastel colours of the water and dreaming of the happy years spent only minutes away from this masterpiece of nature and yet it was a week ago! With its stunning backdrop of mountains , and its unspoilt banks, the lake is just so refreshing and restful.
How incredible to spend the evening with friends, only metres away from such breathtaking scenery, watching one of my all- time favourite movies, Bohemian Rhapsody, in the open air, on a lovely balmy night with a perfectly clear and starry sky. The big screen, the volume of the music, the night and the lake all added up to a very special evening.

Hours later, it was time to pack and head south to Madulain, for me down because it is south, but to the Swiss up because it is 1700m above sea level! It doesn't matter how many times I do this trip, I am always so thrilled as we come out of the Vereina tunnel into the Engadine Valley. What a place to live for 5 weeks of the year! I never stop telling myself how fortunate I am to have this summer job!
What an incredible first evening I had there. It was perfect to sit and enjoy a gin and tonic outside my wine barrel, with one of my best friends, Marc.  This was followed by a walk through the golf course just before dusk. The clouds were dark and threatening, but what light there was lit up the dozens of different types of wild flowers adorning the hills. It was magical.

The tiny cafe above the golf course,which has always seemed to be closed when I have passed, was full of Lyceum teachers and staff, being entertained by a fabulous Irish band. What a fantastic evening it was. I knew many of those present, so it really felt like a home- coming. 

Next morning, after a very cold night, it was once again a perfect day and time to truly appreciate my little home for the coming week! Each year I come, I have to pinch myself to make sure I am not dreaming. It is an unbelievable experience. 

Not only is my accommodation truly special, but the walk to work also takes a lot of beating. 30 minutes walk through meadows, carpeted with colourful wild flowers, past waterfalls thundering down the hillside,

And through the picturesque village of Zuoz, quiet before the invasion of families at the end of the week.
The walk home is equally as pretty, again through meadows, then along the banks of the very high and fast- flowing River Inn. It seems an idyllic existence even with all the work. Living in a campsite really helps divide work and free time. I have also enjoyed several visits from Lyceum staff. Nice to share my 'home' with others!
Mid- week seemed a good time to take a break and head off towards Italy, over the spectacular Bernina Pass. I have always wanted to ride in the open carriage at the back of the train, and this time there was space in an otherwise packed train. 
It was really a breath- taking experience going over the Pass and arriving at the Lago Bianco, the White Lake. Not so white at the moment, but a very appropriate name in winter!

With no dirty windows blocking the views, the colour of the scenery was so intense. Lakes, forests, mountains and glaciers were so vivid. The view from Alp Grum was spectacular, but sadly even after just a year, it is clear to see that the glaciers are rapidly diminishing.

My goal was Poschiavo, where there is a Wednesday market. We used to go every year when I first started working at the camps. At that time, we were lucky enough to get a day off in the middle of the second week, because the kids had a day walking on the glacier.
I was delighted to revisit this gorgeous little town tucked into the valley leading towards Tirano, Italy.

It was a perfect day, not a cloud in the sky. The colours of the buildings and sun umbrellas were fabulous, and the atmosphere mesmorising.

Only minutes away from this bustling square, is a rather macabre place, where the skulls of previously buried people are placed when the graves are dug up 25 years after the burial. I am not sure how it all works, to be totally honest, but these cupboards full of skulls do throw a small dampener on an otherwise incredible place!

But, back to the square and the market, and those sunken eyes were soon forgotten! 
Of course, I had to enjoy a pizza and local wine there, surrounded by these fabulous buildings. It was a brilliant people-watching spot and the pizza was delicious, even more so because I had watched it being rolled, shaped and then thrown and twirled in the air before being covered in mozarella, mushrooms and local ham. Yum!

It was pretty hot in the town, so I sought shade and cool in one of the many churches in Poschiavo. What a fabulous exterior it has too, not to mention its meticulously kept churchyard.

Today seemed to be the day when simple pleasures turned into phenomenal moments. As I entered the church, I thought the choir must be rehearsing. I sat to listen and realised that the lady standing in the centre of the church was singing alone. The acoustics were extraordinary, as was her voice. Luckily, she turned to me after one song to ask if she could continue.   I am so pleased she did. This very simple church had been brought to life.

Sometimes I make some strange decisions, but rarely do I regret them. Today was such a day, when in the extreme heat of early afternoon I decided to walk down to the beautiful Poschiavo Lake, about 90 minutes away.
I must have missed a sign, but ended up on the road rather than track for a few kilometres. Actually, I still really enjoyed walking through small settlements, with picturesque houses amd well looked after gardens full of lush vegetables.
This little road was 2.3 metres wide, just wide enough to allow the local bus to pass through! Amazing.

Luckily, I found myself back on the track by the river and at last in some shade. What a surprise to suddenly come across a lovely reserve with these incredible paintings, in the middle of nowhere!

I have to admit I was very happy to arrive at the lake, the far end of this photo, but then really wanted to walk around it. Great choice. It was stunningly beautiful, and much cooler.
Most people would be angry to miss a train by thirty seconds, but I immediately thought to myself that I could spend more time in this absolutely gorgeous place, MiraLago, a tiny community at the end of the lake, where the train actually runs along a track in the road! This is an interesting corner.

The little restaurant/ hotel on the right was enchanting. Wow, was I pleased I had missed the train! The hotel is 300 years old and inside and out is fabulous.

Time to leave, unfortunately, but the trip back to Madulain was magnificent and the views down the valley to Poschiavo and the lake were far more impressive later in the afternoon than in the heat of the day. 

It was such a great day. I had walked 13 kilometres, but so enjoyed all the different experiences.
To top off a perfect day, my caravan neighbours invited me for dinner! 
With the camps just two days away, I will simply enjoy and appreciate being here in my wine barrel - actually enjoying a great NZ white wine!
I will miss my little village of Madulain with its beautiful homes with sgraffito on their walls
J
But I will be back, perhaps by bus, sneaking through between the walls of these lovely homes!




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