Snaefellsnes

Yesterday we missed the tiny turning off the main road to the beach at Djupalon. Thankfully, we decided to retrace steps to another spot to try to see some puffins, so it was easy for us to stop here on the way. I am so pleased we did. The beach and the sirrounding cliffs were magical.

On the beach were dozens of huge round stones. Apparently, in years gone by the fishermen of the region here would test their weightlifting skills using these stones. 

Apart from the stones, there were also the remnants of a shipwreck from 1948. I sort of liked the rusty scattered fragments, which seemed right on this beach. Many lost their lives in that ship, so it was a kind of memorial to them.

The beach reminded me very much of the West Coast beaches with their backdrop of cliffs and the rough sea with its beautifully coloured waves crashing in. No bathing here either!
The one thing missing compared to the West Coast was, of course, the rainforest. Here there was not a tree in sight .

The access road was a dream road for me. I have never driven a road like it before. We felt as if we were heading off into nowhere. On both sides were kilometres of lava rocks covered in golden green moss.  Although it was quite a deserted place, it was a very easy and safe road. As we left the beach, what a fabulous view we had of the still snow- covered southern side of Snaefell. The roads leading to its glaciers are still closed even to off- roaders.

Today we stopped just west of the magnificent clifftop we had enjoyed so much yesterday.  We had met a rather strange lady in the restaurant, who claimed to have seen puffins there. Neither of us honestly thought we would see those endearing wee birds, and we were right. I am, however, grateful to the lady for sending us to this spectacular place, Malarrif / Londrangar. It was, in some ways, similar to the cliffs we had seen yesterday afternoon, but it seemed even wilder and more remote.

The cliffs were very steep and then further on were two remarkable rocky outcrops.

It was gorgeous walking along in the sunshine listening to the sometimes almost deafening sounds of the thousands of nesting birds. What a busy sight it was as the parents tried to satisfy their chicks' hunger. I could have sat and watched all day!

In the other direction, the lovely moss and in total contrast the rounded summit of Snaefell. We were so lucky to have such a clear day.

The colours and contrasts were so rich and these massive hunks of lava looked majestic as they towered above us, providing so many ledges and fissures to the birds. 

Tucked in amongst the lava and moss, were the prettiest wee yellow and white flowers. I must find out what they are called.

It was quite sheltered on the little path amongst the rock formations and along the coast. I rarely met anyone on the track. It was a very special feeling. 

More lovely, this time succulent, plants growing in the lava mounds. They sparkled as the sun caught the water droplets on them.

Then down to sea level and the black sand beaches with their stunningly beautiful rock pools full of the most incredibly colourful  plants. 

Many pools looked as if they had the manes of Icelandic ponies in them! It was wonderful to potter around there in the sunshine. It made the colour of the plants and surrounding rocks even more intense.



Nearing the end of the track was an old fisherman's cottage with many troll tales. Clearly school kids visit there and leave messages on paper mache dried fish. They made great reading. I liked this one. Outside the beach was littered with massive pieces of driftwood - another similarity to the West Coast of NZ.

Now the clouds also played their part, making an already spectacular landscape even more breathtaking.


Here once again were pockets of these lovely pink flowers, saxifrages perhaps?

Time to leave this incredible scenery behind us, as we reached a beach where the lava flow appeared to stop as it reached the sea.



As we headed further on from Olafsvik, even more impressive scenery lay in store for us. The guy I had had my picnic  lunch with yesterday had already said that this part of the island would be sensational, and he was absolutely right. I guess if we had come over the pass from the other side, it would have been yet more spectacular, because the southern side of the pass was through gentle hills and lush green farmland, compared to these dramatic hills on the northern side.

We stopped at Kirkjufell, where there is not only a beautiful waterfall, but also this amazing view out to Grundarfjord.

How incredible is this conical hill. It was a photographer's paradise!

It was without doubt one of the most stunning stretches of road I have ever had the joy to be on. Kilometres of breathtaking scenery and hardly a car or house in sight.

As we moved inland at the start of the pass, the black hills turned to red, with the sun lighting them up ahead of us. So majestic!


At the top of the pass we looked down on a largish lake, where the lava flow had come to an abrupt halt. Just a magnificent end to the most remarkable afternoon!


Here the unforgettable panorama of Snaefellsnes, a sight I hope I will never forget.

What a day it was. I was really sad to leave the peninsula and to head to the city, into the rain once again - fortunately only briefly! This national park with so much variety  was certainly a major highlight for me. I hope I can return there one day.