Karamea

It has been more than two and a half decades since I last visited this unbelievable area in the far northwest corner of The South Island. It seems so far away from Christchurch and yet is only 6 hours away. I guess the fact that it is a dead-end road to Karamea put me off, but I will not be so foolish in future!

It is paradise on earth!

 The drive here, even in rain, heavy at times, is stunningly beautiful, as the mist hangs around the forest-clad  hills and the road weaves around overhanging cliffs adjacent to swollen rivers. The rain adds to this West Coast splendour, increasing the intensity of the  colour of the many shades of green of the native forest and the magnificent rata trees with their wonderful red flowers, nestled into the otherwise green foliage.

The road from Westport to Karamea is a drive requiring extreme concentration as you cross the winding Karamea Bluffs, with forested hills on the one side and steep drops through forest to the sea on the other. The low mist prevented us from seeing the views on the way up north, but we will get another chance on the way south!

Karamea, township with 576 people the sign says. It feels as if you are at the end of the earth and so privileged to be there to enjoy this spectacular part of New Zealand. Our first day was a mix of soft drizzle in the morning, clearing mid afternoon. It is not a problem walking in such weather, in fact,  it is very pleasant. 

The Estuary walk close to the township is lovely. The locals looked at us inquisitively as we passed

Beautiful creatures, eating their way through the day!

The salt marshes are really gorgeous with plenty of birdlife, and pretty flaxes in bloom.

We headed north to the end of the road, where one of the first of NZ's Great Walks, the Heaphy Track starts, or ends, by the Kohaihai River. En route we stopped at a fantastic waterfall by Mossy Burn.

We were fortunate to arrive about ten minutes after a very large rock had fallen onto the road. It would have given us quite a shock!
The view downriver to the mouth of the Kohaihai River was made more special by the lovely red flowers of the Rata tree. 

The swing bridge leads you to a very special area indeed.

To one of the prettiest places I have ever been, The Nikau Palm walk. The richness of the green after the rain  is truly amazing.

Actually, we could have spent hours on this walk. It is just heavenly.

However, we went on up the hill to the Scott's Beach lookout. It was a wonderful track with such fantastic vegetation alongside the path.

Although we only got a glimpse of the beach through the mist, it was certainly a great walk.

By the time we reached the beach by the river mouth again, the rain had cleared. What a magnificent river this is, with steep sand banks in places and beautiful limestone rocks. The forest backdrop is equally sensational.

As you reach the mouth of the river, the pounding of the massive waves against the rocks is deafening, and so impressive.

This is NOT a swimming beach!

Heading back to Karamea, Flagstaff Beach and its salt marsh beckoned. So pleased we decided to stop there.

  E

The end of a fabulous first day in this remarkable place. How lucky we are to visit at a time when few tourists and locals are out and about. 

Next day was our Oparara Valley day. I was a bit put off by the idea of the 16 km shingle road into the main car park to access the tracks, but with absolutely perfect weather and nobody else on the road, we were able to enjoy a slow, low-geared trip around so many bends and up and down this incredible road built for the miners so long ago. The views over the forest clad mountains was breathtaking. Sadly, it was such a narrow road that stopping for photos was impossible.

However, we could enjoy the day exploring the Oparara area on the many well-formed tracks. The Oparara River was spectacular, particularly its colour contrasted against the lush forest on either side.

The forest here leaves you spellbound, and you have to make time to look up. The tree palms which protected us from rain yesterday, became sunshades today!
 
Our first stop was Mirror Lake. It was a good choice to go there first as the weather could not have been better and the colour of the lake and the reflection were perfect. It was remarkable - so tranquil and oh so lovely.

The track to Moira Arch was stunning, with such a variety of both magnificent large native trees towering above us and beside the path on mossy cusions, delicate funghi. Imagine that in a forest where only the birdsong disturbed the silence.
 
Moira Arch, only 8 metres tall and 43 metres wide, is so incredibly beautiful thanks to its spectacular setting amongst the lush green vegetation and the fabulous red of the tannin-coloured water. What a fantastic gem!

Moira Arch is , however, the lesser known of the two arches. Oparara is every piece of advertising for the area and the walk to the arch is spectacular, with the red Oparara River always in view. What a peaceful spot on a small beach beside it. The water is crystal clear.

A few corners further on you have the first sighting of the massive limestone Oparara Arch, more than 40 metres high and 273metres wide. Its sheer size makes it very difficult to do it justice in a photograph.

What a fitting end to a fantastic three-day stay in yet another of New Zealand's spectacular and off-the-beaten track regions. 

I will certainly not be leaving it so long to come back. This is a must-see area, again and again!