Lyon

After a lovely trip from Nyon to Lyon by train, following the very full and fast- flowing River Rhone through wooded valleys with steep rock faces, I arrived in Lyon and settled into our really cosy appartment, minutes' walk from the old town. It is perfectly located in the very quiet and untouristy St Georges area. Great!

Our next door pub had this fabulous sign. Would like to see it everywhere!

Whilst waiting for Pam to arrive from Brittany, I explored close to home. Lyon's old town is a maze of narrow, cobbled streets, mainly lined with bars and restaurants, but occasionally with almost secret passageways, winding their way through up to four different appartment blocks, such as this one.

After a happy reunion with Pam, it was wonderful to explore the old town together.

We knew storms were forecast for the afternoon of our first day, so set off early up on the funicular to the top of the 300 m high Fourviere hill, with the magnificent Basilica at the top. I had visited it before, but did not remember quite how impressive the basilica is. The pillars with their evil looking birds at the base are incredible, and the ceiling with its ornate paintings and the walls and floor with their mosaic inlays are glorious. How did they manage these masterpieces centuries ago ? No wonder that 2.5 million people visit each year! Luckily, it was a quiet day today!

I don't recall the crypt at all. This lower church stretches the incredible 80 metres under the basilica, and although not having the same amount of decoration, it is ,nevertheless, spectacular amd was quite unexpected, as we were expecting tombs in the crypt rather than another church!

What a lovely view down on Lyon there is from the zigzag walkway back to the city. I love those rusty- coloured rooves and pastel- coloured buildings. It is a huge city, I believe the second largest urban area in France. 

After a stroll across the Saone and Rhone, we found a narrow street near the Place Bellecour where we had a delicious 3- course lunch. Every course was  tasty, not excessive, and served with a smile by our wonderfully attentive waiters. Making the lunch even more special, was the fact that today there was a Gay Pride procession amd so we were entertained by the very colourfully clad people making their way to the procession. Sadly for them, they all got drenched as the heavens opened just as the event started, and for a good hour we were treated to a very dramatic and noisy storm with deafening claps of thunder and rather scary lightning.

This rainy afternoon provided us with a perfect opportunity to visit the Museum of cinema and miniatures. What a fascinating place this is. It is absorbing and educational, giving details of movie making - the sets, costumes, stunts, robots, make up, stunts, etc. Over 5 floors of a building saved from demolition at the last minute, you are taken through room after room of fantastic items from well- known European and American films. 

I just loved seeing and reading about how Robin Williams was made up, over four hours, to become the famous Mrs Doubtfire.

The top floor was an extraordinary exhibition of miniature scenes, over one hundred of them, full of unbelievably crafted items, like this scene of a kitchen for example. This scene was one twelfth of the real size scene. The attention to detail was incredible.

One of my favourite scenes was impossible to photograph, being a narrow window into an area full of dozens of minute different origami animals, all made from postage stamps. How anybody could create such exquisite origami shapes from such tiny papers, I really do not know!

I had planned our stay in Lyon to coincide with the vast fruit and vegetable matket along the banks of the Rhone. One of my bucket list wishes was to buy a picnic at the market and to eat it by the river. This dream was about to come true! First, the delight of meandering through the market, savouring the smells and enjoying the vibrant colours of the super fresh produce, and friendly sales people. 

I have never seen such a mountain of garlic in my life!

Not only was I excited about the picnic, but also about meeting up with Berangere, friend and teacher at Zuoz. It was great to catch up again, and she too thoroughly enjoyed our picnic and wine in the shade by the river. What a feast!

And, what a view of the old city under a cloudless sky!

Fortunately, we did not have to walk far to get to our next event, a trip on a tiny taxi boat down the river to where the Saone and Rhone converge. It was a pleasant trip but neither Pam nor I were excited by the new area they have built there, with very characterless appartments and a massive shopping mall. 

It would have been a perfect place to entertain the children on a wet or super hot day, especially with these amazing ride ons!

Despite the heat, we opted to take the boat back to the far end of its line and to walk back along the river to the old town. Mad dogs and English women out in the midday sun! Anyway, what seemed a ridiculously long way by boat actually proved to be quite quick on foot, probably because it is easier to admire the buildings so time passes quickly. The buildings along the banks of the river were really beautiful, particularly those with the painted windows.

We certainly had earned a rest and a pre- dinner drink! How fabulous to sit by one of the many squares in the old city and to listen to one of the most wonderful buskers I have ever heard, whilst sipping on a huge aperol spritz. Perfect! What an entertainer this guy was, Vasmo Onesmo. I have never seen such crowds gather for a singer.

In the evening, after such a big lunch, we decided on a smaller meal in one of the backstreets of the city. I do not know what the name of the cafe was, but we ate well, had a very friendly waiter ( actually, everyone has been great) and then when I went down to the toilet, I was amazed to find a large drinking room, obviously great for parties, where you can simply pour your own. Seems a recipe for disaster to me!

The toilet was also rather splendid, somewhat like a throne! Dennis has suggested we compile an album of special toilets!

Anyway, it is a shame to end with a picture of a toilet after such a great stay in Lyon. This one is far more indicative of this beautiful city.